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Pattern Making

500 years of apparel history meet 21st Century Technology

What is Pattern Making?

Patterns are shapes we draft using PAD System , which are then printed and used as "moulds" to cut all fabric pieces required to sew a product

Base size is the “body” that represents the ideal measurements and proportion for a clothing item and our signature fit forms are available as a starting point in combination with a full set of measurements captured from your fit model

The main advantage of Sewing Incubator pattern making is that our team has access to every technology, machine and resource available at our factory to come up with the most efficient way to produce each item

Our Pattern Making Process

All CAD patterns are drafted incorporating information from a reference sample, fit model body measurements and design details
1
Suitable styles are drafted on CAD using flat pattern making methods which often includes styles derived from an existing CAD pattern block
2
Certain design features may be achieved more accurately by draping and digitizing those draped pieces as part of CAD file
3
Some styles may require a combination of flat pattern and draping methods
4

CAD Pattern Requirements

1st CAD Patterns

1 Week
Reference Sample
Base Size Body Measurements
Technical Design

Base Size Measurements

1 Business Day
Our base size mannequins are available as a starting point for new brands in combination with a full set of measurements
A full set of measurements may be captured from a fit model using 3D Technology available to our members

CAD Pattern Adjustments

2 Business Days
We only make changes to CAD Patterns that have been audited and meet Sewing Incubator’s industrial standards
Adjustments will only be made resulting from fit sessions that involve Sewing Incubator

Paper Pattern Audit & Digitizing

1 Week
Pattern reflects NET measurements (no shrinkage added)
Each pattern piece labelled following industrial standards for easy identification
Each pattern piece must have seam allowances traced along every side
Pattern Direction card must be included

CAD Pattern Conversion to PAD System

1 - 2 Weeks
Provide the name and version of CAD Software used to create file
Scale guide must be included
Paper print out from original CAD file following ALL the requirements of Paper Pattern Digitizing

PAD System Pattern Conversion

2 Business Days
Test sample file for compatibility with intended software
Acknowledge that all file conversions are AS IS and we don’t offer technical support on software we don’t operate

Body Measurements for Clothing

Base size is the “body” that represents the ideal measurements and proportion of the consumer purchasing a clothing product
We use the latest 3D technology to capture a full set of measurements from your fit model by taking 2 photographs using a link to process the data
Our full size mannequins represent a library of base size options that clothing brands can use as a starting point to develop the base size fit that is representative of their brand to reduce the need of having a fit model present to visualize proportion

How CAD File Conversions work

CAD Pattern file conversions are available in a limited number of formats as part of a full service project

CAD File Conversion to PAD System

CAD Pattern files not created in PAD System may be converted ONLY if they are in these formats:
Lectra Files with extension .iba or .vet created using Lectra
Gerber ZIP Files with extension .zip created using Gerber. Note that generic files won't work if not created using Gerber
DXF-AAMA DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
DXF-ASTM DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
DXF-TIIP DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
DXF-Basic DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
HPGL Plot file standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
ANSI Cut file standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems

CAD File Conversion to Available Format

Project Estimates are available up to 3 products and require that the following items are shipped to us in advance:
PAD System Previous Version Pad System V5 can be converted to older versions
Adobe Illustrator Pad System pattern or graded nest converted to .ai latest version or older
DXF-AAMA DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems
DXF-ASTM DXF standard read by some Industrial CAD Systems

Troubleshooting CAD File after Conversion

Our troubleshooting capabilities are limited to the files handled by our PAD system:
Compatibility User is responsible for file compatibility before conversion
Test Files We provide test files for end user to confirm compatibility BEFORE conversion
Human Error We are not responsible  for inexperienced CAD operators or inadequate software training
Unlicensed Software Using pirated software may corrupt files
Out of Date Software Obsolete software or lack of import features will more likely result in error messages
Data Mapping Issues DXF standard changes may create issues with data exchange integrity that can only be resolved by software developer

Pattern Making for Product Development Estimates

Every step of the development process represents a variable that will influence project estimates and for this reason we offer two types of estimates

Online Service Calculator

Estimate Online
To get the most accurate estimates online, the following information about each style should be readily available:
Consultation
Assess the number of one on one consultation hours you’ll need to complete pattern making service
CAD Pattern
Number of pattern pieces per style based on reference sample and Technical Design Specifications
CAD Grading
Number of pattern pieces per style X number of sizes
Fabric Yield
Number of total pattern pieces to be cut per style and fabric

Product Development Estimate

Project Estimates are available up to 3 products and require that the following items are shipped to us in advance:
Reference Sample(s)
Labelled with style number for each style we'll be sampling for production estimate
Material Samples of the fabrics & trim
Materials you intend to use for sample development and manufacture
Completed Forms
1st Product Development estimate request & shipment content formsPaper patterns (optional) We’ll need to evaluate patterns to make sure they meet our industrial standards to qualify for digitizing
Paper patterns (optional)
We’ll need to evaluate patterns to make sure they meet our industrial standards to qualify for digitizing

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